Secret Pizza should change its name to Pizza. The secret has been out for a long time now. But the concept of finding something hidden in a land where everything is so in your face is a novelty that still has a certain whimsy to it. For a first time visitor, the journey would be as much fun as the destination. And for the rest of us, the pizza is still pretty good.
If, by some chance, you are not aware of Secret Pizza, it’s tucked away in an unmarked hallway between two very famous restaurants on the third floor of the Cosmopolitan. When it first opened, it was pretty cool finding it on your own. Now, at least for those of us who have been regularly, it’s about refueling after a concert at the pool or a night in da’ club. And yes, I spend many nights making it rain at Marquee. Or I’ve never been in my life. I’ll let you decide.
The hallway itself is worth a look even if you aren’t in the mood for pizza. But then again, why wouldn’t you be in the mood for pizza? It’s dimly lit with all the focus being pushed on the walls which are adorned with framed record album covers. We’re not talking a record here and there, we mean the entire upper half of the walls are records. Novelty records, soundtracks, old school rock’n’roll. You could spend an hour just going through the catalogue of covers.
After you make your way through Recordville, the space opens up and you are transported to New York City with the small pizza kitchen that awaits. Chairs, in this case stools, are minimal. You walk up to the counter and order a pie or whatever slices they have ready to go. The topping bar and whoever is making the pizza both stare you right in the face. It’s an intimate and fun experience. And the proprietors are New York Giants fans, so you know, they’re awesome in my book.
While the pizza is a pretty good approximation of New York City, there is something missing that makes this less than the real deal. These are large slices ($5) and for a small space, they offer a nice variety. A white slice is all about the cheese. Dragon cut, thick shredded mozzarella and dollops of scrumptious ricotta do the bulk of the work here. Lots of garlic and a smooth olive oil drizzle complete the show. It’s a slice where red pepper flakes really add a lot. As I was looking at the topping bar, I couldn’t help but think how fantastic sun-dried tomatoes would have complimented this edible white structure .
A mushroom slice was well crafted. Classic New York style where the added ingredient is exactly that, a nice addition, not a brute force that takes away from an already solid slice. The mushrooms were thin cut and the pie was fresh. All good.
The special featured green peppers, black olives, onions and sun-dried tomatoes. It was a nice vegetarian option and I was please the olives were mellow. The tomatoes burst with flavor, further cementing my desire to have them on the white slice.
Speaking again of the white slice, the Sicilian version has a thick and crunchy crust. I actually enjoyed this version more than the triangular construct, as I thought it held up better to the onslaught of cheese. One slice is enough to fill most people up.
Things didn’t go as well for the full pie we ordered. Half cheese, half meat, it fell short on both sides. The first drawback was the flimsy crust. Folding a slice is one of the simple pleasures of life but loses its luster if once folded over the slice still droops down.
The same textural problem was found on the meat heavy side which was obviously bulkier and needed a sturdier base. And while the sausage and pepperoni tasted fine, the meatball was so herbaceous it overwhelmed everything else on the slice.
While Secret Pizza has its flaws, it’s still a fun jaunt and a one-of-a-kind experience. Some people will love the pizza. Everybody will love the trip.
Secret Pizza 3708 S Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 698-7860 Cosmopolitan Las Vegas