This week takes us to one of the more unlikely places to review pizza: Herbs and Rye. If you don’t think of this swank bar as a pizza place, we can’t really blame you. The speakeasy on Sahara Ave near the corner of Valley View Blvd is known for a few things: an amazing cocktail menu, delicious steaks and one of the best happy hours in town. But, as we found out, the pizzas match the quality of the rest of the grub.
You walk into a dimly lit hall, likely after circling the parking lot for at least 5 minutes looking for a spot. The establishment is seemingly packed at all hours and they do especially bang up business during the first happy hour (5 – 8 pm) and the prime drinking hours that follow. There is another happy hour at 12 am – 3 am, but after our meal we were fast asleep by then.
There are two formal dining rooms and a number of tables on the outskirts of the lively bar. On this visit, we sat by the bar, which is a prime people watching space. There is a palpable energy in the room and it is easy to socialize with the other patrons.
As an opening salvo, the appetizers hit hard. Calamari ($17) might be a go-to at many places, but Herbs and Rye separate themselves from the rest of the players with a unique preparation. Breaded and fried squid, frito misto style, is done the right way. But it’s the toppings that make this dish so special. Cherry pepper aioli comingles with prosciutto. While you taste the sauce, the meat gets a little lost. But that’s o.k. Banana peppers are the dominant topping, used aggressively and in this instance, perfectly. The calamari holds up to the bold flavor and the peppers, which usually overtake dishes, shines big time here.
The filet sliders ($15) show the same confidence. Simply prepared filet mignon patties sit on a soft, sweet roll. They are topped with a generous portion of caramelized onions, which retain their firm texture. Creamy horseradish gives the whole thing a cheesy component. Yes, they are as good as they sound.
The appetizers are so good that even the misses are still hits. The meatballs and chorizo ($14) are plenty meaty. In fact, the complaint here is that they are too meaty. Plump globs of quality meat are surrounded by a chorizo broth which adds a great kick. Dollops of goat cheese smooth the entire thing out. Where the meatballs lose me is that there doesn’t seem to be a binding agent – breadcrumbs, panko, whatever – so it is a looser construction that lets itself down a little bit. That is a technical choice that many probably revere and says nothing about the high quality of the actual ingredients. I just wanted a more traditional, firmer texture.
For a place that isn’t known for their pizza, the flatbreads ($15) are no joke. The one that jumps off the page is The Farmer which features thick, smoky double cut bacon, spinach, and two runny fried eggs on top of it. Break the yolks, spread on the pizza and enjoy the awesomeness.
A delightful counterpunch is the bruschetta flatbread. The crispy crust is smothered with mozzarella cheese, then blistered tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and a delightful balsamic glaze are spread across it. Paying great attention to flavor profiles and details, they also add capers which gives it just the right amount of saltiness and again puts it a cut above other versions of the same dish.
These are visually appealing flatbreads. The verticality of the bruschetta is an immediate eye-catcher and the same can be said for the sausage flatbread which features mounds of hand-formed sausage and fresh basil that, like many other dishes, adds a bold and welcome bite.
That brings us to the main event. STEAK! The reason the happy hour is likely so popular is because all of the steaks, and yes, these are really good steaks, are half-priced. Since we like to go big, we chose the King Kong Ribeye, normally $190 but $95 during half off time. This is 60 ounces of prime beef served with two sides. It should be noted that there is an even bigger option, the 120 oz Nectaly’s ribeye (normally $380), named after owner Nectaly Mendoza.
For a place that stakes its culinary name on meat (1 point for the pun), they live up to the hype. In this instance, we went medium on the meat and what we got was nicely charred on the outside, succulent in the middle, steak with no frills. What you taste what you want to taste: meat!
The only quibble is that this behemoth comes with two normal size sides when it clearly needs either a third normal sized side or two large sides. The best of the bunch are the brussel sprouts which pop with bacon, melted cheese, lemon and capers.
Did we save room for dessert? Of course, we did! Freshly fried donuts ($9), think carnival style zeppolis, are dusted with sugar and served with a white chocolate and a caramel dipping sauce. Rest the donut in the sauce and let it get coated with all that gooey goodness. It is a dessert you won’t soon forget.
And you can’t do dinner here without a cocktail. The extensive menu spans many different eras meaning you can enjoy libations from that were popular during the Rat Pack’s heyday or during Prohibition or during different periods in the 1800s. I love the Pimm’s Cup from the Gothic Age, as refreshing as cocktail as I’ve had. Pimm’s No. 1, cucumber, lime and ginger ale make a delightful dinner cocktail that would just as easily go in your hands (and mouth) while sitting on a beach as it does at the bar.
So many choices. So much deliciousness. No wonder it’s so difficult to find parking.
Favorites
Jason: Calamari, Flatbreads, Brussels Sprouts, Dessert
Tim: Filet Sliders, The Farmer Flatbread, Ribeye
Herbs and Rye 3713 West Sahara, Las Vegas, Nevada, 89102
(702) 982-8036 http://www.herbsandrye.com
